South Africa

A brief but very busy visit to Cape Town

Iconic!

Coming to South Africa after a crazy few months, I had done little preparation and had no real idea of what to expect. All that I knew for sure was that there were invitations from friends to come and enjoy their part of the country. The reality is that there’s lots to see and I’m spoilt for choice, so am delighted to have local hosts who know all the best places and will pander to my whims, too.

Within hours of my arrival we were on the road to have lunch at a famous seafood restaurant and visit the penguins at Boulders’ Beach.

I had never tried dorado before – quite a light mackerel-ly fish – and I even ate (and quite enjoyed!) some squid, all within sight of the sea.

But the highlight for me was just a little further along the coast where we found the African penguins seeking shade in the dunes, clambering over boulders, sleeping on the beach, splashing in the sea

And then there was the stunning coastal drive back to the city via Chapman’s Peak and my first experience here of the roadside art seller. Original works providing lasting reminders of the townships in which such a large proportion of the population here lives.

Further we passed through some of the high end resort ‘villages’ – Llandudno and Camps Bay to name but two: beautiful properties, many with sunset views over the ocean. We stopped and ate ice- cream enjoying the Saturday evening vibe much more from the gelateria than from the snail-paced car held up behind others looking for a place to park or just dropping off a couple of its occupants.

There was a young family dancing and singing, almost Caribbean or Cuban style at the edge of a zebra crossing, they may even have been attempting to secure some cash but whatever they were doing they did with enthusiasm and an evident sense of joy.

And what better way to end the day than with snacks and a Springboks rugby match! (To the delight of at least one of my hosts, the Boks won !!)

Ever since seeing a friend’s photographic interpretation of the infamous Robben Island, I had been intrigued by the place and was determined to visit so that’s where we headed on Day Two. Seeing the island in glorious sunlight was very different from the monochromatic image I had in my mind: Mandela’s cell was small but bright whereas I had wanted it to be dark and foreboding. The horrors of all that happened there, though, were graphically described by our guide who had himself suffered as a political prisoner there. I understand more now.

Back at V and A Waterfront by early evening, I was introduced to a lovely restaurant and a quick taste of the Sunday evening vibe as well as delicious seafood. Such contrasts in one day!

Wherever we went in Cape Town our views were dominated by the iconic Table Mountain and I really wanted to go to the top, so that was the plan for Day Three.

With both Robben Island and the mountain we had been warned that the queues would be long and, for Table Mountain, we should also be aware that cloud and high winds sometimes made ascent impossible. On both days we found no queues and, although the mountain was in cloud we rose above that to find some stunning views over the roads we had travelled just a couple of days before.

What I didn’t know was that driving to Table Mountain would take us past the famous BoKaap district where the Cape Malay people live in their colourful homes so reminiscent of Cuba for me. Being able to stop there on the way back was a bonus!

A very full three days brought to a close with a braai at my hosts’ home before moving on.