A day in Tbilisi

A good (long!) sleep in a comfortable bed, a good breakfast in lovely relaxed surroundings and I was ready to explore. Along the way I had to go to Magti on Rastaveli Avenue to set myself up with a local SIM card (ideally an e-SIM so that my UK card could stay in the phone). A quick look at the map provided by the receptionist indicated that it wasn’t far – perhaps a 15 minute walk.

I understand why people are fascinated by this place.

As I reached the junction at the top of the hill that is Kote Afkhazi Street, I found myself on Liberty Square, with a huge column at its centre, open and uncluttered as in so many European capitals, but especially Paris.

I wondered why there were no pedestrians crossing the roads: until I found, and very quickly became used to using, the underground walkways that I always avoid like the plague in London, especially if I am alone. Here they contain small retail units and lots of wall art – graffiti or not? I ended up quite curious about what I would find as each seemed different and there was only one I might avoid in future.

And there were interesting people, too, including a couple of nuns from the Sisters of Mercy, established by Mother Teresa, little stall holders along the main avenue and lots of unusual shops – as well as some very common ones looking a bit different from the norm.

And, of course, there was the site of the riots. I noticed that the lighting for broadcasts seemed to be in place and there were significant numbers of police vehicles around but no evidence of protesters aother than barricades and graffiti

Strange how offensive messages are so often in English – but maybe the others are, too, and we don’t know that..

The Magti store was easy to find – a big impressive office where you had to take a number even if you were the only customer there and there were three staff to serve you! The girl I spoke with was exceedingly helpful and spoke English at least well enough to explain to me what the various possibilities were, so I am now the proud owner of a local phone and internet plan on an e-SIM. Technology!

By this time I was ready for a break. It was warmer than I had realised and I should have worn lighter clothes than I did. Cold coffee called. Very good it was, too. While I was enjoying it I also enjoyed the new SIM, using Google maps to plan my walk ( and then changing the route every time I spotted something interesting later!)

I decided to head for the famous sulfur baths area but was distracted and didn’t get there at all! I did get to the Peace Bridge and go on the cable car to Mother Georgia.

As I was walking I spotted an area David had pointed out last night – called the Dry Bridge because there is only a road under it, the area has become something of an artisans’ market with bric-a-brac and ‘souvenir’ stalls thrown in for good measure on the bridge itself. A stroll through the gardens meant a conversation with the two men happy to be disturbed to talk about their paintings and a reminder that crossing the road is no mean feat when you see the speed of the traffic on these roads.

And as I walked along the river bank a few hundred metres away I caught my first glimpse of the Holy Trinity Cathedral which, once you’ve seen it, will catch your eye whenever it’s visible.

Deciding to walk across the Peace Bridge, I was lured to the cable car which takes the curious up to the Botanical Gardens and to the Mother Georgia statue. I queued for the cable car (not in THE PLAN!)

An imposing structure, the Peace Bridge is a hotbed of tourists who seem to ignore (as I did!) the handlers offering to let you hold and be photographed with their peacocks. The birds actually looked unhappy!

The cable car ride was a good way to see the whole of the cityscape and pick out one or two places of interest, most notably, for me, some of the areas I had intended to visit.

Mother Georgia is huge, dominating the city with her sword (for enemies, I was told) and wine for friends. She’s not easy to photograph and I think the best image, in the end, was one I took walking down the hillside after the cable car ride up. Yes, I WALKED – and enjoyed it!

The best view from the top of the hill (left above) made me think of the Pope with his little cape!

The walk down was less difficult than I had anticipated and was made even better by the fact that as I walked I could hear the chanting from the small Orthodox church at the foot of the hill. I had read that it was very ‘conservative’ and didn’t allow photography but that really didn’t bother me as I snuck in at the back without a hair covering scarf. The cross was being constructed at the front of the church, being covered with flowers and the congregation, mainly ladies of all ages, were carrying candles. The gentle light and the calming music were just lovely and I did wish I could share them – but respected the wishes of the community and didn’t even try.

By this time I was really thirsty so was delighted to find a small cafe in the hillside just below the church. The three young men sitting at the table outside reminded me of something from Dr Zhivago and I couldn’t help wondering if they had anything to do with the protests. The cheesecake was good and the fresh orange juice delicious.

And so I walked back to the hotel through quite a run down area but still found smiles.

Back to the hotel to write this – and bed to be ready for more excitement tomorrow as I learn how Georgia celebrated Good Friday – Red Friday, they call it…