Another day in the maze of Jerusalem’s Old City

I remember my mother, having read the diary I wrote during my first visit to Jerusalem in 1978, saying, ‘It feels as if you’ve been somewhere special’. She was a gifted singer one of whose favourite sacred songs was “Holy City” and this visit has reminded me of the scenarios it presents. You can find the words here http://www.james-joyce-music.com/song11_lyrics.html as it seems the song is referred to in James Joyce’s ‘Ulysses’ but a simple web search will bring you other versions including the music. In the final verse it says

‘The gates were open wide,
And all who would might enter,
And no one was denied.’

and yet I’ve been here nearly a week and have not been able to enter the Temple Mount for reasons of ‘security’.

So I spent another few hours on Saturday focussing on the Muslim and Christian market areas and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It was a good day with more interesting encounters.

As I walked towards Damascus Gate through the souk, there was the Jesus guy again, escorted by a black African who was carrying his blanket.

I would see him again later in the afternoon participating in the Catholic procession.

Then there was a man – unusually – selling fruit on the pavement. Most men have proper stalls and it’s the women who sit at the roadside, so this was quite refreshing to see.

Ready to wander back to the hotel I found myself speaking to Monir, a Bedouin trader with a shop near the steps up to the viewpoint over the souk. He was very chatty with a lot of deep philosophy coming out as soundbites. He said, for example, that faith is like a flower that we tend so that it will grow, sometimes it grows wrongly and needs to be corrected – do it while it’s still green and hasn’t had time to become embedded.  He said I should go back to see the view again. I wasn’t ready to – but did do so later in the afternoon when I sat and drank Bedouin mint tea with him, listening to the stories he had to tell. Having time to stop and speak with others like this has really made this trip special.

And back to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to see if the time of the processions was as impressive today… In a different way, it was.

As I arrived I followed the sounds through to the Tomb where the Coptic Christians were holding a service of some kind – very few of them, but very forceful. At the Greek Orthodox Church there was a service and the doorman invited me to take photos – central position! Then I went towards Golgotha, expecting to be shooed away again, only to find the barrier just being put up, so I was able to go up. Soon there was a sense of urgency as the time for the procession approached and the sometime officious young man was supported by others in getting everyone out . I said I had hoped I might be able to stay today for the service and he softened and said ‘OK – over there, but no pictures’. So I actually participated in the final part of the processional worship where they reach the place of crucifixion. I didn’t realise until later that the last few stations of the cross are inside the Basilica: obvious when you think about it!! Again, it was good to see the Church used as it was intended to be.

I left the Church feeling that being there had been a real experience – and promptly lost myself in the markets maze: I think I passed the same spot three times at least!

But I DID find Nasser restaurant again. I had noticed it in the morning and had been impressed by the cleanliness and the standard of the furnishings. Now I was similarly impressed by the staff and the food : kebabs with chips and salads and pomegranate juice for less than 50 shekels. The juice alone is often 25. What’s more it was good – and so plentiful ( as you can see!) that I couldn’t eat it all…. shame! Note the name if ever you’re in Jerusalem – there’s even free wifi.

An early night was called for as I wanted to get to the Temple Mount as soon as it opened on Sunday.