Shabbat in Jerusalem

What does one do in a city where almost everything – including public transport – is shut down for 24 hours? Initially, I thought a trip to the Knesset area and the Israel Museum famed for its Shrine of the Book housing the Dead Sea Scrolls might be in order. Then I decided that my aim was to find situations in which people demonstrated their faiths in little, ordinary, everyday things and I wouldn’t find that at the Museum but out in the streets. So, after a rather more leisurely start than usual, I set off towards the Christian  Quarter, walking up the road at the side of the hotel. To prove how ‘chilled’ I was, I have to confess that my first stop was a small nail bar hidden behind enormous metal doors as are most businesses and, indeed, ordinary homes where they exist in this area.

Next I found Jerusalem Pottery with tiles very similar to the ones I bought forty years ago  and this is the third generation of owners: I came back later in the day to buy and was able to take some photographs of the owner at work.

It was a delight to see the level of care put into the potter’s work: copying patterns from the history of the pottery and checking the quality of each piece before giving it the ‘Jerusalem Pottery’ seal of approval.

http://www.jerusalempottery.biz/products/Tiles/hebrewtiles.htm shows some of the designs and tells how Hagob’s grandfather first came to Jerusalem to help repair the tiles on the Dome of the Rock.

Then I bumped into a Greek Orthodox priest or two, both willing to be photographed. I was especially interested to see them greeted by their parishioners with great affection.

Headed to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre I was determined not to miss Golgotha this time and, in a strange way, was quite moved – but also quite bemused –  by what I saw there in the way of devotion as pilgrims clambered into the space below the altar to touch the rock on which it is thought the cross of Jesus was placed: the place where He died.

In the chapel on the floor below, where the rock face is clear to see behind a protective frame, visitors have adopted the Jewish practice at the Wall: they write prayers on pieces of paper and leave them there.

It was even possible to find a quite spot for a few moments of personal reflection: refreshing among the hustle but I found it amazingly easy to block out the hectic activity around me and focus on the meaning of the place where I was: I guess that’s what pilgrims do.

As I left the main building I heard chanting and followed it into a little chapel which was absolutely full. I learnt later that I had stumbled across a ceremony marking the third day after someone’s funeral. I think it was Greek Orthodox but will need to check.

I walked the same way the next day and again that little church was full of worshippers for a regular service with a TV screen offering an ‘overflow’ space for people to participate outside.

Walking on I was thinking that there were no simple churches inside the Old City, near the ‘original’ sites of  Christian history. The closest I had come across was Dominus Flevit which was perhaps why it had left such a marked impression on me the first time I was here all those years ago. And then, just around the corner from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, I happened across the very minimalist German Lutheran church and foundation: what a contrast!!

The crypt was equally calm – with a coffee shop selling coffee and cakes that reminded me of Berlin with less choice, just right for a lunchtime snack – though the courtyard was bright and sunny in contrast to the cool of the crypt itself and the church. An ideal refresher.

Ready to move on, I headed for Jaffa Gate thinking that a walk around the Citadel/Tower of David might be an appropriate use of time, leaving more opportunity tomorrow morning to do other things – like see if the information I’d been given about the Dome of the Rock was really true or if there was a way I could make a return visit.

The Citadel is one of the landmarks I remember best and it certainly dominates the outer edge of the Old City. It was from one of these sections of wall that it is suggested Satan tempted Jesus to throw Himself off because God would not allow Him to die in the fall.

The fact that this is the point from which the whole area around can be seen would fit with the Biblical story.

And then, looking below, my hotel and the always busy, noisy area just inside the Jaffa Gate: now I understand why there’s never a moment of silence!! The New Imperial Hotel must be one of the best placed for visitors wanting to walk their way around Jerusalem and is also very near tram and bus stops just outside the gate.

By the time I had walked around the area and taken in the Allenby in Jerusalem Exhibition I was ready to retreat to the cool of my room for an hour or two before a final foray to the Western Wall via the pottery shop.

Visitors are expected to observe Shabbat protocol at the Wall, so there is no photography and while I enjoyed observing, there was actually very little going on so back to the hotel with some great views on the way.

And, finally, some opportunities taken from the rooftop area at the hotel