We knew we needed an early start – even more so when we realised that Shukhuti was a fifty-rather than thirty – minute drive away and the rain was torrential. There was no doubt, though, that the hardy men of the villages of Shukhuti would go ahead with the annual Lelo Burti challenge between the two villages. There are all sorts of legends around the game but the most convincing seems to involve a battle in which a traitor was killed: they held his head up high to celebrate victory. The head weighed 16kg, so that is the exact weight of the sand-filled leather ball which is made each year.
Why do this at Easter? Apparently, the Easter holidays in Guria have always been special times of celebration of rebirth of all kinds. This involved a week of festivities: games, music, dancing, folk crafts and the like. During the Soviet era, Lelo Burti used to take place on May 1st as part of the Workers’ Day activities but as the significance of that holiday waned it seemed sensible to move it to Easter Sunday as the Church celebrations were over, people were not visiting the cemeteries until Monday – and everyone was on holiday.
The drive to Shukhuti reminded me of driving through Northern Thailand, the hills rocky and tree-clad and the roads windy and just wide enough for vehicles to pass. And there were the occasional potholes as well as a multitude of stray dogs. So I do feel very much at home here.
We reached the village where the ball would be made in good time and got directions to the house where the morning’s action would take place. The men were already starting, not to create the ball as I had expected but to prepare the area, installing the ubiquitous blue tarpaulin between the ‘outhouse’ and the main house, covering an open area to ensure as many people as possible stayed dry.
Although the children’s ball was already here there was a sense of expectancy as the ‘real thing’ was awaited. Finally, the skin arrived, brought by a man wearing a Georgian Rugby tracksuit. It was given pride of place on the table:
It wasn’t until later that I understood why an Easter feast seemed to be developing.
And then the priest, Mama Saba, arrived and the activity intensified.
Soon he was joined by the Governor of Guria, Georgi Urushadze, and other dignitaries and the toasts began. Then the food came and we were offered khachapuri (cheese-filled bread). And the toasts moved from the bowls to the ball: the air was extracted from the ball, it was folded into a boat-shape, filled with wine and passed to individuals to drink from- the whole amount that was in there!!
And so the ball was passed around to all kinds of people – including Tako and myself! Why do we always get noticed?!
I was beginning to wonder when they would start to fill the ball with sand and soak it in wine to make it heavier and achieve the required 16kg sooner: we didn’t have long to wait. Just two more rounds of wine!! Interesting containers…
And then, at the front of the outhouse adjoining the house, some of the dignataries began to get the ball filled
Soon it was time to start weighing the ball, making sure that it was at the right weight to be sewn up and taken to the church where it would sit until the game later in the afternoon.
It was really wet by this time and still raining cats and dogs so we retreated to Tako’s van to sit down for a while and warm up. We were having a conversation with a charming local lady who was intrigued by the van when, all of a sudden, there was a commotion on the road in front of us and there were the men processing the ball to the church – so we joined them driving behind them as the ball was tossed around.
And then the priest came into his own again as the ball was thrown back and forth on the steps before being taken into its afternoon resting place
While we were sitting in the van earlier catching our breath, a lady who was standing waiting for her relatives to arrive came over to speak to us. She told us a bit about her family and their association with the event but the conversation was cutshort when we set off to follow the ball: she came to find us insisting that we go to her house to rest until the game began. That was a great offer that we were happy to accept. Her family was coming so she had prepared lots of food and was convinced there was enough for us all. There was!!
And so to the game: chaos is not a strong enough word!! The first indication was a rumble of noise in the distance: the opposition were gathering and beginning to march threateningly toward the village, then the priest was hustled along with the ball which he took into some municipality buildings before parading it out into the crowd, with a gun escort. The gun was fired to mark the start of the game from which point on it was everyone in as far as the men were concerned – all ages and sizes were there and having a whale of a time in pouring rain…. not us, we decided to leave fairly soon after the start as we could see nothing. A number of people had said they didn’t understand why people wanted to see Lelo Burti and, had we only been there for the afternoon, we may have said the same. But we discovered a community event serving its purpose – bringing people together, having fun.
I think the photograph that best describes the day is this one. It’s almost impossible to make out any detail but I know the fuss on the left is the priest’s beard and he’s bring the ball out to the players. The speed from there on was incredible!
Back to Lika’s, good conversations with the others, bed. Tomorrow is another day…
Living the Journey 