I had promised myself an early start and that’s what I had – breakfast at 7am and straight down to the entrance to the Temple Mount aiming to beat the tourists on the first day access was possible for a week. That worked and I was among the first up the ramp. But I was disappointed! I had hoped for the kind of activity I had seen there in June: men sitting in small groups, reading the Koran together, but there was just one man going through the ritual of prayer. And, periodically, the skies were grey! It didn’t augur well.
It’s not even possible to get unusual photographs of the artwork as all the tiles are above shoulder level, so I wandered around the outer walls after I had finished getting the shots I could, only to be met a security officer resting under the trees near the Golden Gate telling me that this area was out of bounds to tourists. I thought it was quiet! ‘Now you know why’, he said!! However, I had a couple of views of the Dominus Flevit chapel as I walked and it was good to see the Mount of Olives at its best.
Saddest, I think, was that only Muslims are allowed access to their places of worship for fear of attacks. I saw no such reaction in the Christian or Jewish holy sites, though I’m sure they could equally justify such an action.
Walking across to the Lion Gate I arrived at the Via Dolorosa, near the Church of St. Anne and walked along gently hoping to find groups carrying a cross. I found a photographer carrying two!
Just before the turning to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre I was hailed by a shopkeeper who declared himself English and said he worked for the Qatari royal family. It made me wonder how many other shopkeepers here lead double lives! I chatted to him again later in the afternoon. I wonder how serious his offers were!
Midday seems to have become a time when I have needed to kill an hour or two in the hotel either writing this blog or enjoying a siesta but then I’ve gone out again about four and that’s when I’ve caught some of the interesting moments at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, so today was my last visit there- last afternoon visit at least! We’ll see what tomorrow morning brings- maybe I’ll go back.
On my way back to the hotel I had stopped at Joseppe’s weaving shop again. The lady serving there was a great model!
At the Church today was a large group of Coptic tourists, covered in white cotton they filled the courtyard and were greeted warmly by the of other denominations.
So back to the hotel via the Armenian Quarter and a slight detour to the room of the Last Supper and King David’s Tomb. Once again approached by a man full of stories I let him show me around and was glad I had done as he had a few insights that were new to me, including the origin of the symbol I have wondered about.
David’s Tomb is a traditional synagogue hewn from the rock. Walking back towards the Old City though I noticed the pockmarks in Zion Gate: result of the War of Independence.
A pizza in Hurva Square and I was ready to collapse. Just a few more hours to enjoy the city in the morning and then it’s home to the rain!!
Living the Journey 