Walking the Old City

One of the things I love about the Old City of Jerusalem is its size: it’s easy to get everywhere and the longer you walk the more shortcuts you find.

Apparently Thursday and Monday are the busiest days at the Western Wall as they are the favoured Bar Mitzvah days – that very important ceremony where a 13 year old boy reads the Torah in public for the first time and accepts the responsibilities of an adult male of the Jewish faith. I have never seen so much activity! Women and girls crowded along the fence which separates them from the men so that they could observe and at least be detached participants in their son/grandson/brother’s special occasion.

Many groups had contrived to have their table near the Ladies’ Section fence so that the family could witness the event together and I came across one family willing to allow me to take photographs, which was really kind but also something of a privilege and a responsibility: I hope that, when I send them, they will be happy to have them.

It was fun getting the newly adult son to greet his mum across the fence: two happy people! And it was lovely to note the closeness of this group as the two adult men helped the youngster through the ceremony while his younger brother took every opportunity to be supportive, too.

Having been in the way long enough, I moved on towards the Muslim souk. I had ideas for photographs but not a clue where I might find what I was looking for. The results were pretty random, but this one, I thought was fun – and the hookah smoker even blew smoke at me to make the point that he was really smoking! He was in the area right next to the Dome of the Rock and was about the closest I have been able to get to the area because of the Muslim holiday. I’ll be there early on Sunday!!

The next place on my planned route was to be the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and  from there I would head back to Jerusalem Pottery to show them the pictures of the pieces I had bought forty years ago. As I walked up the street towards the coffee shop I had discovered on my last visit a Muslim was at prayer near the Eighth Station of the Cross. Earlier I had seen another reading the Koran while everyone was buying and selling round him. I do respect that commitment.

At the entrance to the church this Armenian nun had found a shady place to sit and use her phone.

Inside it was as busy as ever with lots of tourist groups but I happened across a man known as ‘the Jesus Guy’ who was fascinating. There’s quite a good description of his way of life at http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2525844/The-Jesus-guy-Bearded-man-familiar-sight-Jerusalem-wearing-robe-carrying-cross-revealed-Detroit-preacher.html and, apparently, a documentary has been made about him. I sat and chatted with him for a while. He’s very direct, asking the question ‘So how’s it going with you spiritually then?’- and it wasn’t just small talk. So many intriguing people here!

Past a few quiet, shady courtyards and I was at the Jerusalem Pottery again, able to watch the artists at work but needing to come back to speak to the owner.

And finally I returned to the Cardo, was given some advice by Udi and so discovered the pathway over the Muslim souk that a friend had told me about only last week. Udi thought it might be a good place to get photographs of Muslims all rushing to the mosque at times of prayer but I had been told of it as a way for Orthodox Jews to get to the Wall without having to walk through the Muslim souk: I’m sure it would be faster!!

One young man hurrying somewhere and another working with military- possibly as part of their training, so teaching them about the ram’s horn (shofar) and seeing how much sound they could get out of it. Lots of humour here!

As I passed the Wall on the way back to the hotel there was a rehearsal for the National Servicemen’s Oath of Allegiance ceremony which would be held later in the evening and one mother showed me her daughter writing a prayer to place in the Wall. Deed done, the girl came back to her mother in tears: her prayer was for her brother – one of those National servicemen – she wants him to stay safe.

One last sight to share

I’m sure somebody out there has a caption for it!!