I was already feeling pleased with myself by the time I reached the Lion Gate and had no real idea of what lay ahead though I was prepared for more bazaars! I knew Israel would be expensive but 35shekels (about $8) for pomegranate juice seems somewhat OTT!! I learned fast to ask before ordering!!
The road from the Lion Gate has shops but is not as closed in as David Street which leads down from Jaffa Gate. Rather than be lined with rows of shops it is lined with sites of religious significance to Christians – mostly churches situated where one of the events of the journey to the cross reputedly took place. Pilgrims stopped to pray at each point, considerately leaving the centre of the narrow lane free for the undiscerning tourist to pass through. Actually, it’d not easy to spot the stations of the cross – some are in the most unlikely locations and some signs are very insignificant.
I had not drunk anything since a 7am breakfast and was ready to try the fruit juice again: this time I avoided pomegranate and had the best orange and grapefruit mix ever for half the price!! It was here, too, that I succumbed to the jewellery again – duped by a very engaging young boy selling ‘his father’s’ designs: I wanted to believe him and I liked what he offered so was a willing victim!
Finally reaching the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, I found it different from my memory: it seemed much more open and the different sections were easier to walk around.The basilica is managed by six different Christian groups and this is evident in the various ecclesiastical robes being worn. I was amazed at the range of reactions to the stone where Jesus body was lain, from pilgrims bringing items to be blessed to visitors standing by watching, wearing clothes that would not be acceptable in any of the other religions’ holy sites.
I was pleased that it seemed so much more accessible and the fairly recent refurbishment has made it easier to understand, too, I think, though I have to confess that I completely missed Gethsemane and am very glad to have been back since to rectify that!
Walking back towards the Damascus Gate I came across one shopkeeper suffering from the trials of Ramadan – too little sleep because the fast days are so long, he said when I asked what was worst about it.
Just a few yards into the new town outside the Damascus Gate I tried a local coffee and as I sat and drank it I watched passersby go about their daily business.
After a bite of lunch I returned to the Western Wall – Ha Kotel – and focussed on the women
Many are very devout and I noted a wide range of ages, too – often in friendship or family groups praying together.
I have become very aware of the presence of the armed forces. Should this be Jerusalem, City of Faiths or City of Conflict? It is sad to see.
Living the Journey 