The next day I continued the drive northwards along the west coast. Once again I wasn’t sure how far I would get but had three places in mind to visit. Although the drive was not as spectacular as that from Haast to the glaciers, it was beautiful – cattle grazing in meadows at the foot of high rocky mountains and, for once, blue skies!
My first stop was to be at Hokitaki where I wanted to visit the glass-blowing studio, but a few miles before that I stopped for coffee and to visit the Maori art gallery in the small settlement of Whataroa. The gallery had some lovely kauri and rumi carvings but they were very expensive and I couldn’t imagine how they would get to the UK, so that was a really good excuse not to buy! A group of locals were talking about ‘the races’ so I enquired what was going on, only to learn that there was a race meeting near Hokitaki – a significant annual local event, apparently. The girl I spoke to gave me very clear directions about how to get there, but I was actually only interested in what might or might not be open in Hokitaki as a result of the event! I was lucky, the glass-blowing showroom was open and I was able to buy my New Zealand penguin so that the one from Wagga would not be alone.
However, the town itself was quiet and a large number of the local greenstone galleries were closed. The ones that were open were very expensive and as I’m happy with the jade I was given by a student in Lampang many years ago, I had no problem resisting the sales patter! In all fairness, they were too classy to stoop to being too persuasive! As a result I set off for Greymouth where I wanted to book the train to Christchurch, hardly believing that the journey was only a couple of days away.
Once again, it took less time than I had expected, driving along the coast all the way and suddenly finding myself in the middle of the town whose tragic mining disaster news had been splashed all over the media so recently. Another reminder of the unpredictability of our planet. Indeed, the disaster was still in the news, with constant pressure from the families for some organisation to take responsibility for the recovery of the bodies.
Greymouth has a very helpful and friendly tourist information centre, based in the railway station from where another of New Zealand’s famous train journeys departs. The TranzAlpine takes passengers from the west coast over the Southern Alps through Arthur’s Pass and then down into Christchurch and I was looking forward to that journey back to Christchurch.
My fears that the train would already be full were unfounded and, about half an hour after arriving there, I left the Information Centre with lots of ideas for the next two days. Where to stay tonight? Punakaiki? Westport? Somewhere that caught my eye along the way? Oh for the campervan that would avoid the decision!
About an hour later I drove through Punakaiki whose Pancake Rocks I wanted to visit but decided to keep going as the weather was so glorious and eventually reached the point at which the main Westport HIghway and the road to the beach and the seal colony part ways. I headed for the seal colony. Why are they such fascinating creatures?! Reaching the small cove with the cliff jutting out to the north, I felt I could be in Devon or Cornwall. After a slight detour to an enticing restaurant during the only hour of the day when it was closed and having had an interesting conversation with a couple from Midsomer Norton (small world, eh? – that’s about 30 miles from home!!), I grabbed the camera bag and walked to the viewpoints, looking for more coastal shots. Seals would be a bonus! The weather was much more pleasant than the name – Cape Foulwind – would suggest! Walking around the headland was a pleasure and it was just so easy to enjoy the sights and sounds of the coast.
I drove on to Westport and found nothing like I had expected – possibly because I didn’t know where to look!! Filled up with petrol and then drove back along the Main South Road thinking I might go halfway to Punakaiki and then head for Punakaiki in the morning. But I could see nowhere to stay until I reached the Punakaiki area. There I saw a hotel that had caught my eye earlier in the day, so stopped and asked about availability. “Yes, we have a couple of rooms”, the receptionist said and proceeded to offer me one of their best rooms, with a bay view, for about half of the regular price. And she was willing to do that for two nights. How could I refuse?! So it was that I spent the last two nights on the west coast in real luxury and right by the sea. I couldn’t have asked for more.
Being so close meant that I could visit the Pancake Rocks more than once. I confess they were not as much like the Giant’s Causeway as I had expected, but they were amazing nonetheless – and very well named!! Here again, I was struck by the number of families enjoying the place with parents helping their children to understand why the formations are special and to marvel in the blowholes, demonstrating as they do the power of the sea, at high tide or older siblings dealing with all the ‘Why?’s of a younger family member.
I found this area very relaxing and it was a good way to enjoy my last couple of days on the West Coast. The vista including the Southern Alps (can you see them in the distance in that last shot?), the blue, blue sea and sky and the rocks themselves especially at high tide as the waves battered in, will be with me for a long time. Maybe an early visit to northern Europe is in order!
I was sad to leave after two nights for the drive to Greymouth, planning to have a look around the town before returning the car. In all honesty, I didn’t find much of real interest though there was a greenstone gallery which had some lovely pieces and then the gift shop at the station.
More to come! But not right now….
Living the Journey 